Philopappou (Filopappou) Hill

A permanent trail of tourists crawl up the Acropolis like ants; but the best views of the monument are from Philopappou (or Filopappou) Hill opposite. The smooth marble walkways among the pine trees look like they’ve been there forever. In fact they were laid in the 1950s by Dimitris Pikionis, the visionary architect who also created the footpaths leading to the Parthenon. Apart from the occasional jogger, dog-walker, and kissing couple, you’re likely to have Philopappou all to yourself. Except on "Clean Monday" (the first day of Orthodox Lent in late February or early March), when Athenians unfurl kites from its summit to greet the advent of spring. Be sure to seek out the Pnyx - the alfresco 'house of commons' where ancient Athenians could all join in the political debate (apart from women and slaves, of course).